Welting and method of making the same



6, 1931 HOWARD 1,787,864

WELTING AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAIE Filed Oct. 10. 1929 INVENTOR. Q

. AT ORNEY.

ergo niform character of the welt.

Patented Jan; 6; 1 931 I commun on isnocxron, nAssaonusurcrsn CORPORATIONOFMASSAGHUSETTS 1'. re ume m Mn'rnon AppiieationffiledOctober 10,

f This invention relates to 'improvements'in that'type -of"weltingknown as beaded or storm welt, and to "a novel method of making thesarne -fl I y I QI-n producing. the raised portion or head of a beaded welt,l which is design'e'drto lie in the shoe creaseforrnedbetween the upper and the welt ofthe'shoe'; it has been custoxnary toemploy a separate filler strip and 10 to unite this to the body of the weltingeith er by attaching it to-the'surfaoe of the strip or by inserting it in a longitudinal'slit formed in the edge thereoff Frequently, the filler strip is cuttroin' the bodyDf-fih We Strip and then united to it in"forn 1ingthe beaded welt. In following suchprocedure, there is always danger of misplacement of the filler strip and inaccuracies in the location thereof are likely to occur which impair the desired 7 Moreover, when the filler 'strip'is attached to the surface of ,the'welting, a seam or other joint'between the body of the welt and the filler strip is formed which must-be covered torender it waterproof. J' v 3 In accordance with the present invention, itis proposed to slit the edge ofthe-welting in" such agmanner thata longitudinally extending portion thereof may be" folded back a) upon its upper surface, ,Inaintainin'g an'integral connection therewith through the 7 fold vertex and forming a filler strip accurately located and already partially secured in the required position; Byl practicing the steps set forth, the employment of a separate filler strip is avoided and an integral two-part structure is substituted for an assembly of separate parts, with-the resulting economies "in materialand labor and improved accuracy of shape and dimensions in the product.

' -Having produced and located the filler stripes above explained; it'may be permanently secured in place by any suitable fastening means. such'as stitching or cement,

" and'may be used in this condition in certain types of bootsand shoes. I prefer, however, to cover the outer face of the welting with sheetfmaterial such asupper leather. The welt structure formed-as explained'is par-- ti l rly well adapted to be covered. One

or MAKING sAutE re f-steam. H edge of the cover strip may be secured in place and concealed: being inserted, be-- neath the folded-back filler strip andjpref- .erably the edge may be located by engage ment with the; inner lor concave face" of the fold vertex. In this .waythe desired parallel relation of the welting-andcover strip is in stir ed and the edge of thecover strip located where it maybe securely and conveniently the folded parts. I v

Having fastened-the concealed ed e of the cover; strip beneath the filler strip, fp'ropose to'wrap the-cover aboutthe filler strip; preferably' in the same operation cover ng the 15 outer or convex face ot the'fold vertex as well as the outer inclined face of the welting. In case stitching or" other through-anclthrough fasteninghas been employed-to secure the filler strip in its folded-back position', thiswill be concealed by the cover strip and a smooth, unbrokenand attractive surface is provided for'theiweltin'g. i 1 These andother features of the invention will be best understood and appreciated from d the following description of a preferredeinbodirnent thereof and of the novelmethod of making it, sele ctedtor purposes of illustration and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which v j Fig.1 is a view, in perspectiveof the strip used in producing the'b'eaded welt; V .7

Fig; 2 i'sra similar View: illustrating the 'stepjof slitting the strip; v

Fig. 3 is a similar View showing the strip defined by the slitting operation turned back; Fig. is a similar view showing the cover strip withone edge in position in the weltingj; Fig. 5'isa similar view illustrating'the step of securing the fillerstrip in folded-back condition; and

'g. 6 is a View in perspective of the finished product. 7 4 i v Thestrip or blank 10 from Whichthe welting' is formed, as shown in Fig. 1, is substantially rectangular in cross section, its opposite faces being parallel or substantiallyso,

and its dimensions being suitable for thetype of work for which the Welting is intended. The strip 10 may beprovided withagroove fastened between the-superposed surfaces of $9 v V 12in its lower face, asis usual to adapt the welt more readily to receive the stitches of the inseam. Simultaneously with the grooving Operation, or separately if preferred, alongitudinally extending slit 14 is formed in one edge of the strip 10, Theslitl i extendsv obliquely and upwardly from the edgeof the strip toward the upper surface thereofand .istermi ed at a orm di a c bene th. c thesurfaceij Preferably, and asherein'shown, the entering lineof the slit-1 L isslightlyabove" the lower corner of the. strip 10. The efi'ect,

.16, which will now be referred teas a-Yfiller.

strip, is folded or doubled back toward the upper surface of the strip 10. In thisoperationthe material remaining between the end fthe*slit Maud thesurface ofthe strip 10 constitutes a hinge, and inthis is formed-a fold-vertex 18,:by which a continuousand sealed integral connection between the two strips is maintained. Tu'rning,back{; of the .filler strip 16 exposes a beveled face 20 at the outer edge of the welti-ng, and the tapering or beveled shape resulting is advantageous in the welting in that it increases the flexibility of its outer edgeand so improves its fit about the contour of the shoe. A covering strip 22',

7 usually of upper leather, is employed for covering the filler, strip and the outerface of the welting. As shown in Fig. 4, oneedg'e' of :the cover strip 22 istucked under the filler strip 16 and engage'd between it andthe upper face .ofthe striplO. In this operation the'c'o'ver strip may beaccurately positioned in 'posi.

tion for assembling by havingits edge butted uniformly agilinstthe nner or concave face of the fold vertex 18.

The edge of the cover strip concealed V beneath the filler strip 16 maybe secured in place by any preferred fastening meansg' As shown in Fig. 5, a stitchline 24 is employed for this purpose.. This, constitutes a through-and-through 7 fastening ,Jextending through thefiller strip 16, the concealed edge of the cover strip22, and the body of-the strip 10. The stitch line 24; extending parallel edge of the cover strip. 7

to the fold vertex1'18 supplements the-latter in permanently andsecurely fastening the .filler strip in place, aswell as anchoring the I r Having secured the inner or concealed edge 7 of the cover strip 22 by stitchingor otherwise,

the cover strip is nextfwrapped about the filler stripl6, being carried upwardly and then-forwardly over the inclined face of'the filler strip, across theouter face of the fold vertex 18 and across'the' beveled face 20 of the strip 10. The cover strip22 is preferably of such width as to register with the outer edge ofthebeveledface 20, and the welting is completed by securing the cover by cement in such, position as shown in Fig; 6. Additional operations, such as afinal trimming of the edge ofthe cover strip 22 or a molding of the completed weltingby rollers or otherwi'se,niay' be carried out 1f desired? The complete welt, however, is shown in Fig. 6.

In; el ting eso e str r. ny desir d at ri l: ayi ete r yed; t ST'iQ T exage e upper leather matching 1n'="-color"-the upper leather of the shoenpper with which the welting' is" to beu'Se'dLor, if preferred, animitation leatherior rubberized fabric.

Bythe foregoing method I have produced awelt of attractive appearance andjunusual strength, with marked economyin material andfin suchmannerfas to require littlesk ll on the part of the operator, inasmuch astheposi:

tion :ofthe filler stripis gaugedby its integral 335 Havingthus. described my invention, what -I;cla'im as new and desire'to secureby Letters Patent offth'eUnited States is: Y I I 1i Agwelt comprising a body portion and a filler strip integrally joined. along one edge and folded-into 's uperposedrelation, and a cover strip engaged between the'two with its concealed-edge in substantial contact with 'the;vertex of the fold thus formed. 2'. A welt comprising-a body portionanda filler strip integrally joined along one edge and folded into superposed relation,a cover strip extending between the two with its inner edge substantially parallel to the fold vertex, anda seam uniting the body portion and filler strip and extending through the concealed edge of the coverstripx-j i 3.;A welt comprising a'body portion and a 4. A welt comprisinga body'portionand a filler strip-integrally joinedaby a 1809; fold vertex and- .disposed insuperposed off-set relation, and a cover strip retained at one edge between the two, extending ,first away from the fold vertex, then upwardly, about the filler strip and then forwardly and downwa'rdly-covering the fold vertex.

.7 A welt comprising a two-part strip "including a longitudinally extending foldvertex,and a cover'striplaid-smoothly over the fold vertex and extending transversely in both directions therefrom "to the adjacent longitudinal edges of the strip. "1 6. A welt comprisingaibody portion having a beveled edge, a filler strip of'substan- 'tially triangular cross section integrally connected to "the body portion along the upper position ofthe cover strip may i filler strip integrally joinedby a fold'vertex side ofits beveled edge and folded back towardthe' upper surface of the body portion, and a cover strip tucked at one edgebetween the filler strip and the body portion and extending continuously over the filler strip and the beveled edge of the body portion.

7. The method of making a beaded welt for boots and shoes, which consists-in obliquely slitting one edge of strip of substantially -rectangular cross section, folding the portion above the slit back upon the upper surface thereof while preserving an integral con nection, and then covering the surfaces of the strip adjacent to the fold.

- obliquely slitting the edge of the welting,

8. The method of making a beaded welt for boots and shoes, which consists in slitting one 7 edge of a parallel-faced strip on an oblique plane extending inwardly and upwardly and terminating below the upper face thereof, doubling back upon the upper face of the; strip the portion defined by such slitting by bending the unsevered portion of the material at-the upper edge of said oblique plane, and

stitching the doubled strip.

9. The method of making a beaded welt i for boots and shoes, which consists in folding back upon the upper face thereof the strip defined bysuch slitting, concealin the edge of a cover strip beneath the foldedack strip, fastening in place said concealed edge and folded-back strip, and then concealing the stitching by wrapping the cover strip about the surface of the folded-back strip.

10. The method of making a beaded welt which consists in obliquely slitting the edge of the welting to define a tapering strip, folding back the strip thus defined in position gauged by the fold'vertex of its connection, positioning a cover strip by gauging it with reference to the fold vertex, and cementing the positioned cover strip to the outer face welt thus formed. 

